Stirling, Wallace, and Doune: Day 10 – Scotland 2017
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15 April 2017
We said goodbye to Edinburgh that morning for the second time. The adventure continued as we headed out to our first stop of the day. On our way to Stirling, Scotland, we passed the infamous Kelpies. They were quite a sight to behold! We didn’t stop to see them, but driving by them was still impressive.
Stirling Castle
Like most castles, Stirling Castle rises from the surrounding area and can be spotted miles before arriving. The first mention of a castle in Stirling was in 1107, giving this incredible location a very long history. The castle has seen its share of owners, swapping between the English and the Scottish many times. The oldest part of the castle that remains is the North Gate. It was built in 1381. Work on the rest of the castle that you see today began in the 1500s. The castle has seen many battles, deaths, and even a murder or two.
It was also the location from which a man called John Damian leaped and attempted to fly with feather wings in 1507. He didn’t make it far, but looking down from the spot he jumped, he must have had the courage of the Gods. It’s a drop! Many historical figures have graced Stirling Castle, including Mary Queen of Scots.
Our Visit
We used our Historic Scotland pass to get in for free, which saved us £14.50 each at the time. It currently says on their website that if you want to use your pass, you need to book your tickets online in advance. There is also a small discount on regular ticket prices if you book online rather than buying a ticket at the gate.
There is so much of Stirling Castle to explore that it’s almost overwhelming. After entering, we sort of just stood there for a few minutes, trying to figure out which way to go. It felt like a small town inside the castle walls with so many winding paths and stairs to follow. So, we took a deep breath and went for it. Knowing that we had other attractions to see, we were mindful of our time at Stirling Castle. We still spent a few hours there but could have easily spent the whole day. I’m sure a few hours is enough time for most people, but Billy was in Heaven, and prying him away from the castle was only possible because the next two destinations were also of high interest to him.
We took our time exploring every nook and cranny we could get ourselves into. From the Great Hall to the Royal Palace, this place is stunning. It has been so well taken care of and much of it has been refurbished to look as it might have in the mid-1500s.
The National Wallace Monument
From the walls of Stirling Castle, you can spot the National Wallace Monument, reaching towards the sky. The structure stands 220 feet tall, perched on a craig and standing high above the trees. There are 246 steps to the top, and I can’t tell you enough, the views are worth the climb.
Construction of the National Wallace Monument began in 1861, and by 1869, it was open to the public. Tight stone staircases wind you up through the tower, taking you to a few separate floors. Each of these floors gives history on Wallace and the battles between Scotland and England during his time. On the final floor, before you reach the top outer area, you’ll find Wallace’s actual sword. It hangs in an enclosed case and it absolutely massive. It didn’t arrive in the tower until 1888 but now resides there in its new home. After this final floor, climb the stairs to the top and be prepared to have your breath taken away.
I couldn’t imagine visiting the National Wallace Monument during the high season. It was pretty packed when we visited, and the stairways are not very wide. For two people to pass by one another, one has to turn sideways and press their back against the wall. If you’re not a fan of tight spaces, you might want to keep that in mind. Given that the stairways are not straight but curve around the inside of the tower, you don’t get a clear view to see if anyone is coming or not. Regardless, we had an incredible time. If you don’t know who William Wallace is, check out this page for his history. If you don’t feel like reading, Mel Gibson played him in the movie Braveheart.
On the way out, be sure to check out the incredible gift shop. You can follow in Billy’s footsteps and buy a full-size replica of Wallace’s sword. Yep. FULL SIZE. They’ll even mail it back home for you so you don’t have to try and take a 5′ 3″ sword on the plane.
Doune Castle
After wrapping up Stirling Castle and the National Wallace Monument, we took a short 15-minute drive over to Doune Castle. If this castle looks familiar to you, you’ll recognize it from two top-rated programs. First, Monty Python and the Holy Grail filmed here in 1974. More recently, Doune Castle doubles as Castle Leoch in Outlander. It also appeared in the pilot episode of Game of Thrones and was used in the 2018 film Outlaw King.
We got in for free using our Historic Scotland pass (seriously, that pass was well worth it) and saved £5.50 each on admission (prices have gone up since then). Trust us on this; opt-in for the audio guide. Not only do you get a history of the castle narrated by Terry Jones, but you also get fun film tidbits from him about the filming of Monty Python and the Holy Grail. It is hilarious and so fun to listen to. In addition, you also get narration from Outlander’s Sam Heughan about filming the show at Doune Castle. This added immensely to our experience.
History of Doune Castle
While there was probably some other type of fortification in or near this location, the version of Doune Castle that we see today was built in the 13th century. In 1361, the land on which Doune Castle stands was acquired by Robert Stewart after his marriage to Margaret Graham. Doune became a royal castle in 1424 and served as such until 1603. By the 1800s, the castle was in ruin. Thanks to the 14th Earl of Moray, George Stuart, the castle saw restoration in the late 1800s. Doune Castle was donated to an organization in 1984 and is now operated by Historic Environment Scotland.
Our Visit
Doune Castle is such an incredible place to explore. I think one of my favorite areas was in the kitchen, where you can actually stand inside the giant oven. They are huge! You can also still see knife marks in the stone where the cooks used to sharpen their knives.
Another impressive area is the great hall. It’s the shining star in the crown of Doune Castle and has been wonderfully restored. You can also climb through the floors of the castle to the upper floors. Since the actual floors of the castle are missing, you can look down below into the castle or stare out of the upper floor windows. The views are beautiful and it’s fun to imagine what living here might have been like in centuries past.
Not only did we learn a lot about the castle and its history through the audio guide, but we also learned some entertaining things about Monty Python and the Holy Grail and Outlander. We can’t say it enough. Get the audio guides! Before we left, we hit up the newly opened gift shop (it still smelled of fresh paint), and I bought another book to add to my collection. Click on the photo to get a copy of your own!
Bracklinn Falls
When we finished at Doune Castle, we headed to our final destination of the day, Bracklinn Falls. The falls are only 15 minutes from Doune Castle, and we still had plenty of daylight left. We parked in the car park area and enjoyed the walk out to the falls. On the website, it says that the walk is 3.25 miles and is a loop. I think we just walked the same part of the path in and out, if I remember correctly. We didn’t walk the full loop.
The walk takes you down to the Bracklinn Bridge, where you can view the falls and the gorge below. It’s a beautiful spot!
Making Camp For The Night
After our long day of amazing locations, we settled in at Witches Craig Caravan Park. The facilities were great and the people running the place were very friendly. With the temperature falling, we set up our tent, washed some clothes, and then tucked in for a cold night. At least the views from our tent were beautiful!
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy