Fortingall Yew, Glen Lyon, And Blair Castle: Day 15 – Scotland 2017
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20 April 2017
Today marked Billy’s 30th birthday. We tried to work it out so that we could see things that were high on his list, and lucky for us, we had a great day planned. Our first stop was one of great interest for both of us, but for vastly different reasons.
The Fortingall Yew
Yew is a type of tree that grows commonly in England. It is best known for its use in the production of longbows (cue Billy’s medieval history obsession, particularly anything related to battle). The wood of the yew tree is the hardest softwood available and is great for things that require elasticity, hence the longbow use. Many yews were planted in churchyards as a resource for bow making, and the Fortingall yew is no exception. It stands proudly in the Fortingall Church churchyard, surrounded by stone walls.
Unfortunately for bowmakers of old, yew is the perfect wood for bows, but most of the yew trunk is unsuitable for bows and has to be discarded. Unfortunately for the trees, that didn’t stop the need for the weapons. The demand for bows was so high that the yew supply was depleted by the end of the 1200s in many areas of England. England imported yew from other countries, but it still didn’t meet demand. As a result, there aren’t very many ancient yews, making the Fortingall yew that much more incredible.
The Fortingall yew is estimated to be between 3,000 and 9,000 years old (cue my love of nature, especially the ancient kind). It is said to be the oldest living thing in the UK and possibly in Europe. The trunk measured a whopping 52 ft in 1769. It is far smaller today due to souvenir hunters, but you can see stakes marking the old circumference. It might not be a long stop, but it was one worth making. It’s incredible to see something so ancient. As you walk up, there are events and peoples imprinted on the sidewalk. The yew tree was alive for all of them.
Glen Lyon
The next item on our agenda wasn’t a destination but more of a journey. Starting in Fortingall, a small, winding road leads you through what the ancients thought was the gateway to Faerieland. Glen Lyon is said to be one of the most beautiful drives in Scotland, and we agree 100%. Of our 15 days in Scotland, this was the most gorgeous place we’d seen yet. 32 long and lonely miles of road stretch through the glen, taking you through one of the most emotion-evoking places we saw in the country.
There was something about the incredible beauty and serenity of Glen Lyon that instantly made me want to set up house there. I could easily see us living there, surrounded by the majesty of Scotland and enjoying every second of it. It has a melancholy elegance that calms the spirit and soothes the soul. It’s a beautiful drive and we highly recommend it if you’re in the area. If you keep an eye out, you’ll spot an incredible sight. A waterfall crashes down behind an old, arched stone bridge on the far side of the river. It is a view straight out of a fairy tale.
Blair Castle
After the ancient Fortingall Yew and the magical Glen Lyon drive, we headed to a much more modern addition to the Scottish landscape. Blair Castle, like many others, is a hodgepodge of eras built on to the original. The oldest part of the castle, Comyn’s Tower, dates from 1269. In the years and decades after, other parts of the castle were added on, such as the Great Hall, built in 1530. Blair Castle underwent an interior Georgian makeover in 1740, and then massive exterior remodels in the late 1800s. It also served as an auxiliary hospital during WWI. The castle has extensive gardens as well as a few walking trails. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to enjoy those, but hopefully, we’ll get to make it back one day and see their beauty fully.
Our Visit
I wish I could tell you more about our visit to this castle, but my memory of it has slipped. We only have two photographs of the inside, so I’m guessing photography was not allowed when we visited. The website says that you may take photographs, but not in the entrance hall, and they heavily emphasize that they are for personal enjoyment only.
I’ve gotten a few stories about the castle intertwined with Glamis Castle, which we visited the next day. I have spent some time researching and sorting those out, haha! Of all the stories jumbled in my head, the only one that relates to Blair castle is that the Duke that lives there still has a private army. It is the only private standing army in all of Europe! They mostly march in parades and such, but still, it’s pretty neat.
Pictures online have jogged my memory a little, which is great. The rooms are packed with pieces to look at and it is all beautifully furnished. Above all, it is an opulent castle. I remember one of the staircases more than anything else. It had paintings of ancestors covering every inch of the walls all the way up and around the landings. It was quite impressive and reminded me very much of Hogwarts.
I also remember the insane amount of deer antlers throughout the castle. The only room we have pictures of is the Victorian ballroom, and it is a shining example of the antler decor. There were tons throughout the castle!
An Evening Out
Our journey from Blair Castle that evening was very short. We were camping in the castle’s campground, a mere two-minute drive away. After setting up our glamorous accommodations for the night, we headed out in search of dinner, and truly, we couldn’t have found a better place to eat for Billy’s birthday.
We stumbled upon a place called The Loft and we were in for a treat! Billy had venison and Guinness while I tried their take on steak and Guinness pie. Both were PHENOMENAL. I cannot recommend this place enough. The service was amazing and the food was out of this world. To top it off, we had sticky toffee pudding, and you can bet it was just as good as everything else we had! Just thinking about it is making my mouth water.
After gorging ourselves on an incredible meal, we made our way back to our tent and fell into a blissful sleep. With bellies full and both of us exhausted from a day of amazing sights, Billy’s birthday was a complete success. The Fortingall Yew, Glen Lyon scenic drive, and Blair Castle did not disappoint. What a way to turn 30!
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy
