Returning to Scotland: Day 6 – Scotland 2017
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11 April 2017
After one final breakfast together, our Titanic family said their goodbyes as we all headed in different directions. Most were headed home, but Billy and I were just getting started. We packed our bags, got into our rental car that had been sitting unused in the parking lot for the entire week (click here to see why we were more than happy to do that), and started our Scotland Tour.
Hadrian’s Wall
Our first stop on our grand tour was to a place that once separated the two great countries of England and Scotland; Hadrian’s Wall. Built by the Romans beginning in 122 AD, Hadrian’s Wall stretched 76 miles, and its sole purpose was to ‘separate the barbarians from the Romans.’ Basically, the Romans tried to take over Scotland, realized that was in no way going to happen, and then built a wall so they didn’t have to deal with the people in what is modern-day Scotland. CRAZY!
Housesteads
Billy and I had already chosen what area we wanted to see of Hadrian’s Wall, but our friends Bill and Andrena (who hosted the reunion) mentioned taking in Housesteads as well because so much of the Roman fort is still there (ruins, of course). In fact, Housesteads is the most complete Roman fort in all of Britain! We figured we’d try to see it as well, but as fate would have it, we couldn’t get to our original destination because of roadwork and stumbled upon Housesteads by chance. Perfect!
The wind was biting and bitter, but we bought tickets and trekked up the steep hill, determined to see what the Romans had built and left behind. We stopped in at the small museum and then went out to the ruins. They did not disappoint. Standing on the remains of the wall and looking out toward Scotland, it was easy to picture a life that the Romans saw, standing watch on bitter days, looking into the wilds of Scotland. It sparked in us the desire to walk Hadrian’s Wall in its entirety, something we hope to do someday.
Crossing Into Scotland
We left Housesteads, our final stop in England, and drove towards the Scottish border. A short while later, we stopped at the border and took in the incredible view. We also took a photo that has become one of our most used photos and captures our excitement pretty well. Scotland, we have arrived.
Jedburgh Abbey
We were originally supposed to stop by Floors Castle, but we had spent much longer at Housesteads than we’d planned. Plus, the castle wasn’t open yet, so we decided to pass on it and head straight to Jedburgh Abbey instead.
Jedburgh Abbey is in an area known as the Borders and is one of four abbeys established in this zone in the 1100s. A priory was established at this site in 1138, and by 1154, it was an abbey. From the 1300s on, this area was more or less in a constant state of battle as England and Scotland warred with one another. It’s incredible that the church still stands. It took more than 70 years to build and has survived not only battles but time as well.
Walking The Ruins
Jedburgh Abbey was the first abbey ruin we’d been to and we were eager to get inside. Other than the Rock of Cashel in Ireland, we hadn’t seen many church ruins. We went into the shop/lobby area and got our tickets (which were free because of our Historic Scotland pass). We also chose to get the audio guide. From this point on, if there was an audio guide available, we got it. They offer so much more information than you’d get on your own just reading the signs! We highly recommend it, and most of the time, they are free.
My favorite part about Jedburgh Abbey was climbing the spiral staircase to the second level and looking out into the abbey. It’s an incredible sight. There is much to explore and the architecture is stunning. It includes a mix of styles, from Romanesque to Gothic. There is also a small museum area where you can view stone carvings up close.
The Carter’s Rest
After wandering through the abbey for an hour or two, we walked across the street to have lunch at The Carters Rest. It was a great restaurant with friendly staff that made us feel right at home. After a frigid morning at Housesteads and a chilly afternoon at Jedburgh Abbey, a hot lunch was just what we needed. The food was delicious and warmed us right up!
Ruberslaw Wild Woods Camping
We’d booked a tent pitch at Ruberslaw Wild Woods Camping and were eager to arrive before dark. We made our way there with plenty of daylight left to set up camp and also spotted our first of many pheasants. These birds are so incredibly beautiful!
We really enjoyed this location. It is such a lovely spot in which to camp. You have a few choices of locations for tent pitches, including the Edwardian walled garden, woodland pitches (three different areas), or out in the exclusive wild (a much more secluded, wild area). We camped in the Edwardian walled garden (be still, my Titanic-era loving heart) and were at pitch number 16 (you can view the walled garden site map here). We paid £18.00 for our one-night stay and had an excellent experience. Not a bad price and very friendly owners! There are walking trails here as well, but we didn’t have time to enjoy any of them.
As darkness fell, we decided to turn in early. We’d had an emotional morning and an incredible first day on our own. Housesteads and Jedburgh Abbey did not disappoint! We fell asleep listening to the sounds of Scotland, still trying to wrap our heads around the fact that we were actually there.
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy
