Abbeys For Days: Day 7 – Scotland 2017

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12 April 2017

Dryburgh Abbey

We were up early, packed, and at Dryburgh Abbey when it opened at 9:30 in the morning. Dryburgh Abbey is part of Historic Scotland, so we got in for free with our Historic Scotland membership pass. Otherwise, it would have cost us £5.50 each (at the time of writing, the cost is now £6/adult).

While Jedburgh Abbey was impressive and looming, Dryburgh is graceful in its ruined state. The location is serene and the ruins stood in the sunshine as if caught mid-dance. I was instantly in love.

Dryburgh Abbey was established in 1150. It wasn’t the richest or most successful, but good Lord, is it in a grand place. Like the other abbeys in the Borders, it suffered attacks while England and Scotland warred with one another. In 1322, as the English were retreating, the abbey let the bells ring out. It soon suffered its worst attack as the soldiers turned back to set the abbey ablaze after hearing the bells.

As we walked the grounds, we found the grave of Sir Walter Scott. He was laid to rest in the ruins on 26 September 1832. We had no idea he was buried here, and it was such a coincidence that we’d climbed the monument dedicated to him during our first day in Edinburgh. That was also unplanned. It was quite a surprise to see his name again at Dryburgh Abbey. In my opinion, it is one of the most beautiful places one could choose as their final resting place.

Exploring The Ruin

We didn’t think we’d come across a better abbey ruin than Jedburgh Abbey, but we were instantly taken with Dryburgh. Sure, the entire church area is intact at Jedburgh. But Jedburgh doesn’t have the balletic presence of Dryburgh. It also doesn’t have the views.

At Dryburgh Abbey, you can climb the stone stairs all the way to the tippy-top and peer out over the grounds. It’s incredible to still be able to do that. On the grounds, there are a plethora of headstones and monuments to take in. You can also wander in and out of the abbey ruins to your heart’s content. We had the place nearly to ourselves, and I can’t find the words to convey to you how peaceful it was. Simply a stunner of a place.

Melrose Abbey

After finally tearing ourselves away from Dryburgh Abbey, we set off in the direction of another one, Melrose Abbey. This abbey is also part of Historic Scotland, so we got in for free instead of paying another £5.50 each (at the time of writing, the cost is £6/adult).

If we thought Jedburgh and Dryburgh were impressive, we were in for a shock. Melrose Abbey was founded in 1136. It was directly in the crosshairs of the warring countries and was damaged more than once, requiring rebuilds and repairs. A few notable people are buried there, including Alexander II. Robert the Bruce’s heart is also buried there, although the rest of his remains are located in Dunfermline Abbey. Look out for the stone carved with a heart. That is where his remains are believed to lie in Melrose Abbey.

Like other abbeys in the area, they fell to disuse after the Protestant Reformation of 1560. Lucky for Melrose, the abbey church was used as the local parish church until 1810, when a new church was built. I’m sure that is one of the main reasons why so much of Melrose Abbey remains. While not original (only a small section of the first abbey church remains), most of the buildings are still quite old. What we see today is what was rebuilt after attacks destroyed much of the abbey in 1385.

Keep An Eye Open

Some key things to look out for when you’re there include Robert the Bruce’s heart, the stone carving of a pig playing the bagpipes, and the staircase that will take you to the very top of the abbey. While up there, look towards the bell area. Note the worn steps that lead all the way up to the bell. They’re not open to the public, and for good reason. It’s a LONG way down.

Abbotsford House

Next on the agenda was Abbotsford House. (We paid £8.95/adult when we visited. At the time of writing, the cost is £11.50/adult). We’d planned the day to eat lunch at Abbotsford, which turned out really well because we were starving by the time we got there. We grabbed a bite to eat in Ochiltree’s Cafe and walked over to the house. It’s an absolute stunner and was the home to one Sir Walter Scott. Who knew we’d accidentally stumble upon his monument and final resting place before coming to his beloved home.

Abbotsford was completed in 1824, and Scott lived there until his death in 1832. After traveling to try and improve his health, he returned home and passed in his lovely house by the river. Abbotsford House opened to the public in 1833.

I don’t remember why we chose to add Abbotsford House to our list of places to see, but I am glad that we did. The setting is beautiful. The house sits perched above the River Tweed with a lush lawn that slopes down to the river’s edge. We quickly decided that we could easily live here. We’d take it without even touring the house. When can we move in?

Once inside, we were sold completely. Scott was a collector of things, and two of his interests happen to align with ours: books and weaponry. I was speechless when we walked into his private study, just as Billy was when we stepped into the armory room. Every twist and turn in the house revealed another layer of beauty we didn’t see coming. If you get the chance to see Abbotsford House in person, go. It’s straight out of a storybook.

Returning To Edinburgh

We said goodbye to Abbotsford House and drove back to Edinburgh, where we checked into the Gil Dun Guest House. We were slated to stay here for three nights, and we couldn’t have picked a better B&B! The owners were so kind and recommended tons of places for us to see and eat at. They made sure we had everything we needed and we can’t recommend them enough! We chose the Gil Dun Guest House because it was near Arthur’s Seat, within walking distance to the High Street area, and it was a great price. Keep in mind, our walking distance may not be the same as your walking distance. It was about a mile into town. After getting settled in, we still had plenty of daylight left. We figured we might as well hit up Arthur’s Seat since we had the time!

Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat is part of an extinct volcano system, the same of which Edinburgh Castle is built on. At one time, there was a hill fort on top of Arthur’s Seat, one of four hill forts in the area. It is popular in present day as an invigorating walk that is rewarded with outstanding panoramic views. It’s also free! The elevation takes you up over 250 meters (around 820 feet), and while the walk is easy, it’s steep. We’d also recommend taking a little jacket, even in the summer months, because the wind is fierce at the top. The climb may take you a while, but the views are worth it!

A Full Day Deserves…

We took in the views at Arthur’s Seat for a while and then headed back to the Gil Dun Guest House. We popped in to freshen up, which we needed after trekking all over Dryburgh Abbey, Melrose Abbey, Abbotsford House, and Arthur’s Seat! Our hosts suggested the Salisbury Arms for dinner, so we took their advice and headed over. All I remember about dinner is that it was delicious. I don’t remember what I had, just that it hit the spot. What do I remember? Sticky toffee pudding, a dessert well deserved.
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy