Dunrobin Castle and Castle of Old Wick: Day 24 – Scotland 2017
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29 April 2017
Early in the morning, we said goodbye to lovely Inverness and got back on the road. We were retracing our steps from the day before, so we knew that we’d be passing by Dunrobin Castle again. It wasn’t on our list, and we didn’t even know it existed until we drove by it 15 hours earlier, but we knew we had to stop. We would have to sacrifice seeing Smoo Cave but decided to go ahead with the plan. We did not regret it.
Dunrobin Castle
The spires of Dunrobin Castle peek out above the trees and can be seen well before arriving there. They bring to mind fairy tales of princesses locked away in a tower, awaiting saving. When the castle was first built in the 13th century, it resembled nothing of what it looks like today. The Earls and Dukes of Sutherland have always called Dunrobin Castle home. The Earldom is one of the seven ancient Earldoms in Scotland, and they were one of the most powerful families in the country.
Their original square keep was slowly added onto until it was completely swallowed by additions and renovations that mainly took place from the 16th century onward. In the 1800s, the castle was transformed into what we see today. It had a heavy French influence, even down to the gardens, which are based on those at Versailles. Unfortunately, fire ravaged the interior in the early 1900s. What we see today is mainly the work of Scottish architect Sir Robert Lorimer who oversaw subsequent rebuilds and renovations. The house was briefly a boy’s boarding school for seven years in the late 1960s, but afterward, the family moved back in.
Inside Dunrobin Castle
We bought tickets to tour the inside of the castle, which was amazing. There is a one-way self-guided tour through many floors of the house. While you don’t get to see all 189 rooms, you do get to see quite a lot. There are staff members throughout the house to answer any questions you might have or tell stories of the family and castle. I do remember that there is a section you get to walk through where you can see some of the original 13th century stone keep. Unfortunately, Dunrobin Castle does not allow photography inside the castle, so I don’t have any photos to share. But trust us, it’s worth the cost to go inside.
Before you leave the castle, be sure to check out the tea room and gift shop! Both are fantastic, and you’re sure to find something to suit your fancy.
The Gardens
If you’re a fan of walled gardens, you will find a slice of heaven in the gardens of Dunrobin Castle. As I said earlier, they are based on the gardens of Versailles, so how could they not be stunning? It is a formal Victorian garden that will not disappoint. If you take the castle tour, note all of the fresh-cut flowers. They all come from this very garden!
The gardens used to be far more extensive, especially at a time when they were relied upon for food, but most of that land has returned to woodlands. A bit of a bummer for us garden lovers, but I’ll take the forest just the same, I suppose. The garden that is left has changed very little in the last 150 years. It’s such a lovely thought to know that we are experiencing nearly the same garden that others did so very long ago.
Even though we saw the garden before everything was in bloom for the season, it was still stunning. The vines growing along the walls reminded me of The Secret Garden, and I felt like a young girl again, my imagination coming to life. The castle views are amazing but don’t forget to walk to the back of the garden to the ornate metal gates. From there, you can view the beautiful Moray Firth, and far in the distance, the Cairngorm Mountains.
The Museum
The museum was originally built to be a summer house but was then converted to an area to house the many collections of the family. The most prevalent collection in the museum is the many, many heads of animals that were shot by the family while on safari. There are also extensive archaeological collections, including the rare collection of Pictish Stones and cross-slabs. There are displays on gold panning and geology as well. It’s an interesting collection to peruse, but if you’re not a fan of taxidermied animals, best to skip this part.
Castle of Old Wick
‘The Old Man of Wick,’ or Castle of Old Wick, is just over an hour northeast of Dunrobin Castle, and the road follows the coast, making for a gorgeous drive. The drive to the area of Wick is easy enough, but tracking down the castle itself is a bit trickier. We felt like we were driving through someone’s front yard, and in reality, I think we were. We parked near a stable where the road ran out and walked over to the castle. The road runs out because if it kept going, it would lead you straight over the cliff and hundreds of feet down to the crashing ocean below.
Castle of Old Wick is the complete opposite of Dunrobin Castle. It sits in a ruined state, perched far above the waves, on a thin promontory of rock that looks as though it might fall away at any moment. Although it is not known for certain, historians believe the castle dates from the 14th century. Not much of it remains, but part of the four-story tower still stands. The location of the castle is breathtaking, if not slightly terrifying.
Cliffs drop sharply on all sides of the promontory, and nothing is stopping you from going over the edge. The wind howling off of the sea is intense, and it’s hard to imagine a pleasant life living here. On the contrary, it must have been a harsh, blustery existence. We poked around the ruins for 30 minutes or so before retreating to the quiet warmth of our car. Castle of Old Wick faded back into its quiet existence as we drove away, aiming our car towards the ferry in Scrabster.
To Orkney
After buying some essentials (snacks, socks, and Febreeze), we boarded the ferry to Orkney. We sailed across the sea as the sun was setting, and it couldn’t have been more beautiful. After a smooth journey into Stromness, we arrived at Point of Ness Campsite, fully regretting our choice to book a tent pitch for the night. It was bitter, and the wind was FIERCE. There were a few other people at the campsite, but they were all in caravans.
When we checked in, the warden told us we could sleep in the lounge if we wanted to. After walking out to try and find a suitable site, while watching him through the big window as he showed off the lounge area, we laughingly took him up on the offer. And he was right. We liked it far better in there!
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy
