Mount Stuart and Rothesay Castle: Day 35 – Scotland 2017

This page contains affiliate links, and we may receive compensation if you click on a link. You can read our full advertising disclosure here.

10 May 2017

We had two major stops on our agenda for the day; Mount Stuart and Rothesay Castle. Despite the name, Mount Stuart is not a mountain or hill walk, but a stunning showstopper of a house that left us speechless.

A Spot Of History

Mount Stuart started its life in 1719. The Stuarts of Bute built their home on the Isle of Bute, and lived peaceably in the house until 1877. A raging fire swept through the grand mansion, destroying most of it. Luckily, most of the contents survived, as well as the wings of the house. The 3rd Marquess of Bute took this disaster and turned it into an opportunity. He was intending to renovate the house anyway, and now he could start anew.

The new Mount Stuart would incorporate the old wings of the previous house, creating a blend of Georgian and Victorian styles. Scottish architect Robert Rowand Anderson led the project, and in doing so, created a masterpiece. Mount Stuart is incredible. There is art in the architecture everywhere you look. There is so much to take in that it’s overwhelming, and that’s all before you even walk in the door.

Mount Stuart became the first house in Scotland to have electricity, central heating, a lift, and a heated indoor swimming pool. Every bit of it still works.

Walking Into Oppulence

We were blown away by the mansion before stepping foot inside, and we had no idea what we were in for. To say that we were speechless simply isn’t enough. We must have said ‘wow’ at least a million times while walking through. The Marble Chapel is stunning. The Marble Hall is stunning. The bedrooms are stunning. Even the bathrooms are stunning. I think you get the point.

While there are hundreds of small details that took my breath away, there was one clear winner for me. The Marble Hall takes the cake. I’ll freely admit that I unashamedly laid down in the middle of the floor to snap the following shot of the ceiling. But, I mean, COME ON! Who wouldn’t?

The vaulted ceiling, standing 80 ft above, is a tapestry of the stars. Painted along its arches are constellations, and the windows carry the signs of the zodiac splashed in the colors of their season. It’s an incredible sight to behold. Twenty different types of marble make up the Marble Hall, and there isn’t a corner of the great room that isn’t breathtaking.

If you enjoyed the splendor of the Marble Hall, you’ll probably also enjoy the Marble Chapel. Gleaming in white and gray marble, it’s another showstopper of a room. The dome and spire of the chapel also mark the highest point of the mansion.

One of my favorite rooms in the mansion has a darker history to it. Just off of the master bedroom lies a conservatory. During WWI, it was used as an operating theatre. With its glass ceilings and walls, it let in plentiful natural light to operate by. We were told by our guide that after the war, the conservatory was kept closed due to the harsh memories it brought forth for Lady Bute. I wish I could find more information on that, but I haven’t been fruitful in my search. If anyone has more information on this aspect of the house, I’d love to hear it.

Halted By The Hands Of War

While upstairs in the Marble Hall, a guide asked us to look up at the tops of the pillars we were standing under. She asked us what we noticed. After a few moments of looking between the pillar caps, I noticed that many were in various states of unfinish, and some hadn’t even been started yet. Once we had noticed this, she proceeded to tell us why.

Mount Stuart employed the best craftsmen that money could buy. They were so good and trusted in their craft, that the stone carvings for much of the house were done after the pieces were installed. Could you imagine the pressure of knowing you only have one shot at carving a stone perfectly? That’s how good these men were.

Unfortunately, the shouts of war called. As WWI got underway, work stopped on the house. One by one, nearly all of the men that were employed at the site joined the war effort. As the war raged on, the carvings stood just as they were on the day the men’s hands stopped working and left the house. Many of them never came back. As a monument to all of the men that were lost in the war, Lady Bute left the work unfinished so that they would never be forgotten, a stark reminder of lives left unlived.

An Unforgettable Experience

If you have the chance to visit this stunning mansion, do it. There are so many rooms and hallways to explore, gardens to walk, and stories to soak in. Every inch of this estate is incredible. We enjoyed our time immensely and highly recommend visiting Mount Stuart. The only disappointment to our day there is that the indoor pool was closed for repairs. I so wish we could have seen it in person. However, I’m thankful that it gives us an easy excuse to go back. Our pictures will never do the house justice, but we hope you enjoy them nonetheless.

Rothesay Castle

After being dragged away from the beauty of Mount Stuart, we were on the road and off to the next adventure; Rothesay Castle. It’s not a far drive, only 10 minutes down the road in the middle of Rothesay. The first stone castle on this site was built in the 1200s and was probably built as a defense against the Norwegians, as Rothesay had been taken twice by kings of Norway. The Stewarts added four towers in later years, and even later, a gatehouse. The castle soon fell into ruin, though, and it sat in that state until the 1800s when the Crichton Stuarts restored portions of the crumbling fortress.

The castle has an incredible circular curtain wall, which sets it apart from other castles. It also has a full moat! We enjoyed exploring the ruin, and again, were lucky to have it completely to ourselves. While going through the many ins and outs of the castle, we also stumbled upon a first for us. Under one of the stairs leading into the castle, a seagull had built a nest. We didn’t know it was there and startled the bird when we went inside. To our surprise, there was a huge egg in the nest! We decided to leave that part of the castle and let the bird go back to nesting.

One area of the castle has been wonderfully restored and has a few exhibits inside. You can also go down into the pit prison, which is pretty cool. If you can handle small spaces and a vertical descent down a ladder, make sure you check it out!

New Friends

After wandering around Rothesay for a short while, we drove out to our B&B for the night. We had booked one of two rooms available at Station House, and when we checked in, our host asked if we’d like for him to make reservations for us for dinner. There was only one pub nearby and he told us that the other guests staying also had reservations there. We said sure! Our reservations were for the same time, and as we were all coming downstairs to leave, the other couple asked if we’d like to carpool with them since we were headed to the same place. We said yes, and jumped in the car with them.

Having known these people for all of 5 seconds, I was a bit worried to hop in a car with them and drive down unfamiliar roads in a foreign country. But for some reason, we went with it. I’m glad that we did because we had a lovely time. We even ended up sharing a table since we hit it off so well. It was great getting to know them and we had a lovely time. They were on holiday from England, having both recently retired. He was a police officer and she was a teacher (if I remember correctly). We had great conversation all evening and I’m so glad we didn’t say no to their offer.

Once back at the B&B, we said goodnight and headed off to bed. Sometimes, surprise plans make the best memories. Thanks for an amazing evening, Margaret and Les! When we finally make it to Yorkshire, I hope we run into you again.
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy