Salem, Mass. – Titanic Trip Pt. 5

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If there are two things you’re going to be taught in a Texas grade-school history class, it’s going to be the Civil War and the Salem witch trials. Salem is somewhere in the ballpark of 4-5 hours from New York by train, so we decided to give it a go. After many years of learning about the location and the events that took place there, I wanted to see it in person. So, on the morning of 21 April 2012, we jumped on a train and headed to Salem via Boston.

Salem

When we arrived, we took a taxi to the Morning Glory B&B. We had booked in advance and were staying in the Rebecca Nurse Room. From looking at their current website, it looks like it is still run by the same folks who were operating it when we were there. They were amazing and we loved staying with them. If you are ever in the area, definitely look them up!

Our room was beautiful and spacious, just what we needed. It also had a fireplace that was ready to be lit and enjoyed. On our first full day in Salem, it rained and rained, and we stayed cozy and happy next to the fire in our room. We also watched a documentary about modern-day shipwrecks, mainly cruise ships. Good thing we didn’t watch that before the cruise!

Cemeteries

Call me morbid, but I love cemeteries. They are full of history and stories and lives lived. I think they are some of the most peaceful places to visit, and you can bet we saw a few in Salem. Our first outing was to Burying Point Cemetery. It is the oldest cemetery in Salem and one of the oldest in the US. It did not disappoint. There is something about the shape and detail of those old headstones that simply draws you in. They almost don’t feel real since many Halloween decorations use the same shape. To see this place in person was incredible.

We stayed for quite some time, slowly reading the headstones as we walked through. Here, you’ll find the grave of Capt. Richard More, a Mayflower pilgrim, and John Hathorne, a judge in the Salem witch trials. You will not, however, find the victims of those trials within the cemetery grounds.

A Memorial To Those Killed

Situated next to the cemetery is the Salem Witch Trials Memorial. This small plot of ground was set aside to remember the 20 people killed during the madness of the trials. Their bodies were not allowed to be buried in the consecrated ground of the cemetery. It is believed that they were cut down after the hangings and tossed into a shallow crevice near the hanging grounds. It is also believed that under cover of night, the families of those killed came to collect the bodies of their loved ones and then buried them on their own land.

This beautiful little plot, set aside for those that died, is worth stopping by. After all, they were the ones that suffered for the fame that Salem now sees today. Take the time to sit awhile and remember them.

The Witch House

The Witch House is the only building still standing that has a direct tie to the witch trials. It was the home of Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges of the trials. The house has been restored to the era of Corwin’s residence, and I must say, it stands out.

Looking at it from the street, it’s like you’re IN the 1600s. It is an imposing structure that screams Halloween from every shadow of your childhood. We enjoyed our time here, wandering the rooms and reading the history, walking in the footsteps of the past.

Ye Olde Pepper Companie

Directly at the end of the street from our B&B sits the Ye Olde Pepper Companie, which happens to be America’s oldest candy company. It’s been making and selling candy since 1806. Naturally, we spent a good amount of money in this tiny little building. From Blackjacks to Gibralters to chocolates, they’ve got it all!

For the rest of the day, we wandered around Salem, just taking in the sights. It’s a charming spot with plenty to see, although it’s much smaller than we thought it would be. From the initial map we had, I thought we’d spend most of our time walking to attractions, but it’s smaller in person, and everything is easily accessible on foot. At least, all of the attractions we saw were.

Day 2. Or is it day 3?

Remember how I said we’d stopped writing in our journals when we got to shore in New York? Yeah. I wish we’d have kept doing that. Since I uploaded photos all on the same day, the rest of our trip is a little hazy on the when, but at least I remember the what!

The House of the Seven Gables

Directly across the street from the Morning Glory B&B, where we were staying, stands The House of the Seven Gables. We visited on a beautiful day and would definitely recommend it. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside, so my memory of the entire tour is a little hazy, but I know we spent a good amount of time here. The tour was informative and we loved seeing the secret staircase. It had been told for years that the staircase had been put in during the Salem witch trials as a sort of safe room, but it was added in the early 1900s during renovations. Still, I’d love to have one in my own house.

There is also a great gift shop and we took our time buying our souvenirs. There are lovely gardens to stroll through and beautiful views to take in. In all, a great place to visit for an afternoon.

Salem Witch Museum

We visited the Salem Witch Museum, but to be honest, we weren’t impressed. We both felt like it might be more suited to children instead of adults. It was informative but not something we enjoyed.

Essentially, you get to see a performance of the trials in the form of life-size sets and figures accompanied by narration. It was neat but not our cup of tea. They did have a great gift shop, though!

One Last Stroll Around Salem

We saw a few more things on our last afternoon in Salem. We walked by the house where Nathaniel Hawthorne lived for a few years. He also penned The Scarlet Letter within those walls. Nearby sits the Howard St. Cemetery. Just like The Burying Point, it is a beautiful spot and a great stop for cemetery-goers. Some of the headstones are so beautiful and, to me, there is so much history to be learned.

We stopped for ice cream, walked along the water, ate lunch at Red’s, and took in the simply beautiful town of Salem, MA. Then, we boarded a train back to Boston, got to the airport 5 hours early, and finally, boarded a plane to Florida.

Our journey was nearly over, but we had one last stop to make.
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy