Grey Mares and Glencoe: Day 31 – Scotland 2017

Grey Mares and Glencoe: Day 31 – Scotland 2017

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6 May 2017

For the second morning in a row, we woke up to a blissfully warm tent. We packed slowly, soaking in the views before departing the Isle of Skye. With one last look at the mountains, we drove away from the beauty of the isle and into the beauty of an incredible drive. Our first destination turned out to be our favorite waterfall yet.

Grey Mares Waterfall

The beautiful glen near Grey Mares waterfall.

To be clear, this waterfall is located in Kinlochleven. There is another waterfall, Grey Mare’s Tail, located in Moffat, Scotland. Make sure you’re heading to the one you want because there is a 3.5-hour drive from one to the other. I mean, both are amazing, but still. That’s a long drive. There is a constant crossover of these names, and Grey Mares is often referred to as Grey Mare’s Tail. If I’m being honest, researching these falls has got me all kinds of concerned that we didn’t actually see the waterfall in question. But we parked in the right spot and saw a waterfall, so I’m going with it.

We parked in the designated car park area for Grey Mares and then made the short walk down to the water. I don’t remember the walk to the falls, and even pictures online don’t jog my memory. I simply remember falling in love with the waterfall the second I saw it. Water cascades down the narrow gorge, creating the third tallest waterfall in Scotland, and it is spectacular.

There are steel cables that you can use to stabilize yourself if you want to get a little closer. We didn’t know it at the time, but this is the Via Ferrata. It is a climbing route with guided tours where climbers can attach to the cables for added safety measures. If you want to check it out, click here. I wish we’d have known then because this is definitely something we would have done! Who doesn’t want to climb a rock face next to a waterfall?

After admiring the waterfall, we sat in the little glen and daydreamed about having a tiny cottage right there in the sun and how beautiful it would be to live there. We talked about that little dream for the entire drive to our next destination. Even now, we think back on that picture-perfect scene and how beautiful it was.

The Lost Valley of Glencoe

The Lost Valley of Glencoe is aptly named in that we never found it. After an hour or so driving through the incredible landscape of Glencoe, we gave up. I’m pretty sure we came across the trailhead area that would have lead us there, but there wasn’t anywhere to park. We decided to move on for the day, but don’t think for a second that the time was wasted. The region is stunning and we thoroughly enjoyed driving through a few times. For those looking to visit the area, here’s a brief history, and hopefully, better directions than we had.

We were drawn to this particular plot in Scotland due to a story we read about the 1692 massacre that occurred in Glencoe. A few years prior, in 1689, William III took the throne of England and Scotland, ousting James II. Many in Scotland still swore loyalty to James, so to win them over to the English side, indemnity was offered to all Scottish chiefs who swore allegiance to William by 1 January 1692. Unfortunately for the MacDonald clan, Alexander MacDonald put off his submission until 31 December 1691. Because of this delay, he could not make his oath until 6 January 1692, five days too late. Military punishment was ordered.

On 13 February 1692, roughly 100 soldiers that had been amicably quartered with the MacDonald’s attacked. They killed 34 men, including the chief, 2 women, and 2 children. The majority of the clan escaped, though, and found solace in the Lost Valley, a hidden valley 750 feet up a hillside. The clan frequently used the glen to hide cattle. From Glencoe, it is completely hidden from view.

If you’d like to visit, check out this site for directions. Also, keep in mind that Glencoe is the name of the town nearby, and Glen Coe is the name of the actual glen. This might be helpful!

Castle Stalker View

Castle Stalker as seen from Castle Stalker View. Near Glencoe.

We were starting to get hungry, and as we made our way towards Oban, we spotted a little cafe and then quickly spotted the castle in the loch. We immediately decided that this was the perfect spot to stop and have lunch. Our meal was lovely, and we learned a little more about Castle Stalker while chowing down at Castle Stalker View. Unfortunately, you have to make an appointment in advance to visit. We’d have loved to have gone! Still, it was neat to enjoy our lunch while admiring the mid-1400s era castle. And if you’re a Monty Python fan, you’ll enjoy seeing Castle Aaargh in person.

Oban

Oban at dusk.

Our final stop for the night was at Oban Caravan and Camping, a beautiful spot just outside of town. We arrived in mid-afternoon, set up our tent, and then headed into town to explore and have dinner. I wish we’d have had a little more time in Oban, as there seemed to be so much to see. After a delicious Italian dinner, we made our way back to camp and settled in for a relaxing evening of playing cards in our tent. The sun graced us again for the entire day, and we went to bed happier than ever.
Cheers,
Lydia and Billy

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